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Renovation of Lawn


Introduction
This article was written specifically for  the management of cool season grasses in  Auckland, New zealand,  which is warmer than in Germany where I lived for many years and gained most of my experience in managing cool season grasses, but the basic principles apply for both regions.

Under certain circumstances when a lawn becomes patchy, a mixture of desirable and undesirable grasses and is overrun with broad leafed weeds the only option left open to the home owner is to take the drastic measure of a total renovation of the lawn.

Investigate and identify the factors that have contributed towards the problem
One of the most important factors to consider before one embarks on such a drastic and costly measure is why the lawn is in the conditions that it is in the first instance. If the factors resulting in the poor condition of the lawn are not clearly identified and rectified then the whole costly exercise will most probably be a total waste of effort and money.

On analysis of the factors that have led to the lawn being in the condition that it is in, one will find a combination of physical and cultural factors which combined caused the problem.

The two most frequent factors are the improper preparation of the area to be planted to lawn and improper management of the lawn.

As regards improper preparation the most common factors that I have observed to be significant in particular on the heavy low fertility clay soils found in many parts of Auckland are.
  • The failure to provide adequate drainage. 
  • The failure to incorporate organic material into the soil. 
  • The failure to add gypsum and super phosphate to the soils. 
  • The failure to prepare the seed bed by tilling the soil on which the seed is to be sown.

The most frequent factors encountered as regards the improper management of lawns are.
  • Cutting the lawn too short or scalping in many cases right down to the growing point or below.
  • The periods between grass cutting are too long, no more that one third of the leaf blade should be removed at any one time.
  • The failure to fertilize in particular lawns that are under heavy stress due to being cut too short.
  • Providing no or insufficient water during hot dry spells.
If these factors are not addressed it is pointless to renovate your lawn.

The process of renovation
The entire area must be sprayed with glyphosate (Roundup) to ensure that all existing grass and weeds are killed off. Some time needs to be allowed to ensure that all the grass and weeds are dead, any areas missed must be re-sprayed.

Any ground modelling, drainage work or the installation of irrigation that is required must be done now.

Thereafter the whole area is to be covered with a layer of suitable organic matter, such as lawn mix from Living Earth to a depth of between 50 mm and 75 mm, an application of super phosphate at the rate of  50-100 grams per square metre and gypsum at the rate of 500- 1000 grams per square metre is also required. The seedbed is then prepared by tilling the entire area with a rotary hoe followed by a light rolling with a roller. The seed bed is then given a final levelling to give a good even surface.

Seeding of the lawn area can be done by means of a rotating disc, drop spreader, or by means of hydromulching. Spreading seed by hand will not give satisfactory results. When seed is spread other than by means of hydromulching the seed would need to be lightly worked into the soil surface with a rake and would need irrigating.

A lawn can be established at any time of the year although the best results are obtained in spring and autumn. The optimum time to establish cool-season turf grasses in the Auckland City area is during the autumn this is when nature establishes cool-season grasses; therefore, the best results with the least amount of work occur at this time.  Do not delay seeding or the grass may not establish sufficiently before winter allowing winter growing weeds to become a problem.

Choosing the grass variety to be planted.
In the Auckland area the most frequently planted grass planted in full sun situations is perennial Rye grass. Perennial Rye grass (Lolium perenne) is winter growing, a winter-hardy turf grass capable of withstanding temperature and moisture extremes. During hot, dry periods it tends to become dormant and lose colour. If high quality is desired during the summer period, lawn irrigation is often necessary. Perennial Rye grass performs best in full sun, for shady areas a mixture of perennial Rye and chewings Fescue (Festuca nigrescens) usually give the best results. Bent or common bent (Agrostis capillaris) also known as browntop is to be found in many cool-season grass mixes planted in this region.

Fertilizing, Watering and Mowing
Apply a high nitrogen fertilizer over the lawn and water it in completely, this will not be necessary with hydromulching as the fertilizer is added to the mulch mix.  To ensure proper germination you will need to keep the seed moist.  This means watering three to four times daily.  Light, frequent watering will yield the best results.
Perennial Rye will germinate in approximately 1-3 weeks.  Four to five weeks after germination, apply a quick release nitrogen fertilizer at a rate of 30-40g/square metre.  Repeat this procedure at four to six weeks intervals until the lawn is fully established, thereafter follow the recognized fertilizing practice for established lawns.

Mow your new cool-season grass as soon as it is 50-70mm tall with the mower set at 50mm. Continue to mow at that height until the lawn is well established, thereafter the cutting height can be lowered gradually to between 25 and 40 mm.

The root system of your new turf will continue to grow and strengthen even if the grass blades have virtually stopped growing for the season.  In the spring you will be rewarded with a quick thickening, healthy lawn.

Area after having been sprayed twice with Roundup

Area after having been sprayed twice with Roundup

An alternative method that can be employed when budget is a concern. This method can give erratic results
This method employs some of the steps described above but does not give the same results.
The first step is to  the kill off the grass as described above.

Once the grass is dead the entire area must be scarified using a  motorized verticutter or scarifying machine such as this one shown in the picture.
The area being renovated is then given an application of fertilizer and gypsum, in the case of hydromulching this would be added together in one application with the mulch and seed.

verticutter renovating lawn

Verticutter

A suitable compost based soil mix such as the product that has been used in this picture, which is lawn mix from Living Earth is spread to cover the area with a layer of between 15-25 mm. The soil is then levelled by means of a levelling bar. A 1-2 m piece of wood nailed onto a suitable handle is sufficient to do the job.

leveling bar used to renovate lawn

Leveling bar

The planting of the grass is the same as indicted above. In the picture to the right  the seed has been planted by means of hydromulching which gives a superior result.

When employing this simplified method one must realize that you will not achieve the same results as would be achieved if one where to till the soil as indicated above in particular if  poor drainage and soil compaction are of significance.


hydromulched

After having been hydroseeded

Michael Hickman
30.10.05


Ecoman Sports Turf and Lawn Expert

I have considerable experience with establishing and managing both warm season as well as cool season grasses which has been gained in Durban, South Africa, Wilhelmshaven, Germany and Auckland, New Zealand.

Sports Turf Construction Experience

My sports turf construction experience includes the construction of many sports fields for football, rugby hockey and cricket, golf course greens, bowling greens, turf wickets in Durban, South Africa over a period of more than 25 years mostly while working for the Durban Parks Department, which were all planted to warm season grasses in particular Cynodon dactylon varieties. I also constructed and renovated a number of football fields and rugby fields in New Zealand.

Amenity Turf Construction Experience

Most of my amenity turf construction experience comes from over 28 years constructing and maintaining parks and gardens for the Durban Parks Department, I also gained valuable experience as a private contractor constructing parks and establishing cool season grasses mostly for the North Shore City Council in Auckland New Zealand.

 

Sports Turf and Amenity Turf Maintenance Experience

Most of my sports turf and amenity turf maintenance experience comes from the maintenance of a large number of parks, sports fields, road verges etc that were  under my direct care as a horticulturist then later as a horticultural manager during the 28 years that I was employed by the Durban Parks Department


Domestic lawn Establishment and Maintenance Experience

My domestic lawn establishment and maintenance experience has been gained on warm season grasses in Durban and on cool season grasses in Wilhelmshaven, Germany and Auckland, New Zealand. My first experience with domestic lawn care was gained as a young child helping my father do his annual spring treatment of our own domestic lawn up until today where I still do all my own lawn care including the cutting of my own lawn. I have also cared for lawn for commercial clients in South Africa, Germany and New Zealand over a period of over 40 years.

For a number of years I over seeded portions of my own domestic lawn in Durban in winter with cool season grasses to maintain a lush green lawn in areas that Cynodon dactylon had been planted.


Academic Achievements

Certificate in Turf Grass Management (Cum Laude)


Best Student Turf Grass Management Association 1984

Management of Warm season grasses

Management of cool season grasses

Overseeding

Lawn Renovation

Preparation

Weed Control

Particular considerations for Auckland New Zealand